Wednesday, 30 April 2008

Calafat

A sleepy off the beaten path gem, on the shores on the Danube coming to/from Bulgaria, Calafat makes a nice stopover: romantic atmosphere, cobblestone streets to wander around un-renovated XIX century buildings, large parks, and the opportunity of a more scenic way to cross a border: small ferries over the Danube.


details of a forgotten past


Calafat was propriety of the orthodox church until 1855, when the locality was “emancipated”

Rare scene inside – chairs bear names, entire families, in recognition of their role in the community and not least, because of their contributions to the church.

Note as well the force of the profane imaginary on the sacred - Jesus and Virgin Mary are king and queen of heavens.....they bear crowns, like kings and queens of earthly kingdoms.


Emancipation of Calafat (from being church proprety) meant 200.000 lei gathered in 1853 via a public a subscription (mostly rich merchants) and paid to the church of Craiova, and the signature of Barbu Stirbei on the “emancipation” act in 1855.


While i was gazing inside the church, i noticed some strange music becomes louder – a mix of trumpets and drums. The music was accompanying a funeral march slowly approaching the church for the last service. How unexpected this was.

....quickly found my way out of the church and was looking for a shady spot to hide my discomfort on taking pictures in such moments. But to my amazement, a professional was filming the entire ceremony.....they’re filming not only at weddings these days, i said to myself, and opened the camera.


The ruins of an old XIX century bourgeois mannor transformed in a hotel during communist times make a scenic sight. Wander around and inside the courtyard if you find the doors open.

Hidded among the trees, a modest monument to the first Romanian soldier to die during the independence war of 1877. Was he from Calafat?

Chestnut tree parks

Some kids playing in the park got curious about me wandering around. One of them was barefoot, but seemed the leader among equals. Who i was, where i come from, how large is my villa. They would like to come to Vidin with me they said, but are too little to be allowed on the ferry. They were in Bulgaria once, last year for 1st of June, when the school organised a trip for them to Vidin, when hey ate so much chocolate and ice cream that one of them got sick. Thank you for the pictures sir, next time you come here look for us.


Another XIX century manor by the river shore. Hidden in vegetation, un-renovated, decrepit and locked under heavy chains, testimony of half a century distance between the building and its owners.



a more scenic way to cross a border....though EU meant not much of a border is left here...maybe at lest because of the relaxed attitude towards photos, the typical border police paranoia

There are regular services all along the week, but allow 1,5 – 3 hours (including waiting time for the one of the 2 ferries to arrive at docks, loading, unloading, border formalities, 20 min walk on the Bulgarian side).